40–60% of New England homes lack ductwork. Ductless mini-splits are the ideal solution — no invasive duct installation, room-by-room control, and cold-climate models that work down to -13°F. Here are the best systems for old NE homes.
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Avg Home Age
75–150 yrs
pre-1950 stock
Typical Heat Loss
60K–90K BTU
much higher than modern
Zones Needed
3–5
for whole-home comfort
Avg Installed Cost
$14K–$22K
multi-zone systems
Why Old New England Homes Are Different
New England has one of the oldest housing stocks in the United States. A significant portion of homes in Massachusetts, Connecticut, Rhode Island, Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine were built before 1950 — many before 1900. These homes were constructed with balloon framing, plaster-and-lath walls, minimal or zero insulation, and no provisions for ductwork. They were designed around cast-iron radiators, coal stoves, and later, oil-fired boilers. They were never intended to have forced-air systems of any kind.
This construction heritage makes these homes both excellent candidates for ductless heat pumps and uniquely challenging to heat efficiently. The lack of existing ductwork means you cannot install a conventional central ducted heat pump without major construction. But the room-by-room nature of the original heating system (radiators in each room) maps perfectly onto a multi-zone ductless system where each room gets its own independently controlled indoor head.
Old New England homes also carry distinctive challenges: balloon framing creates hidden air channels from basement to attic, plaster walls are difficult to insulate without destruction, and many homes sit in historic districts with exterior modification restrictions. Understanding these factors is essential to designing a ductless system that actually performs well in a 100-year-old house.
The 4 Challenges of Heating Old Homes
Before choosing equipment, you need to understand what makes an old home so much harder to heat than a modern one. These four challenges drive every system design decision.
High Heat Loss
Pre-1950 homes lose 40-60% more heat than modern code-built homes of the same size. Balloon framing with no insulation, single-pane windows, and unweatherstripped doors create a massive thermal load. A 2,000-sqft old Colonial may need 70,000-90,000 BTU of heating capacity — the same as a modern 3,500-sqft home.
No Ductwork (and Can't Easily Add It)
These homes were designed around radiators and boilers. There are no duct chases, no return-air plenums, and no mechanical closets sized for an air handler. Adding ducts requires opening walls, building soffits, and sacrificing closet space — often at a cost of $8,000-$15,000 on top of the heat pump itself.
Historic Preservation Constraints
Many old New England homes are in historic districts or on the National Register. Local historic commissions may restrict exterior modifications including outdoor unit placement, line set routing, and even the appearance of line covers on exterior walls. Getting approval can add 2-8 weeks to your timeline.
Room-by-Room Temperature Differences
Irregular layouts, varying ceiling heights, uninsulated exterior walls on some sides, and rooms added over time create extreme temperature variation. A second-floor bedroom might be 78°F while the first-floor kitchen is 62°F. Zone-by-zone control is not a luxury — it is a necessity.
Top Ductless Brands for Cold-Climate Performance
Not all ductless heat pumps are created equal, especially when temperatures drop below 0°F. Standard mini-splits lose significant heating capacity below 15°F and most shut down entirely below 5°F. For a New England old home — where the heating load is already high and the structure loses heat rapidly — you need a cold-climate rated unit that delivers full (or near-full) capacity at sub-zero temperatures. Here are the four brands we recommend for old New England homes.
Best Overall
Mitsubishi Hyper-Heat
The most widely installed cold-climate mini-split in New England. Hyper-Heat technology maintains rated capacity down to -13°F with no electric backup. Largest dealer network means easy service. The MSZ-FH series is the gold standard for bedrooms and living rooms.
Best Cold Performance
Fujitsu XLTH
Rated to the lowest operating temperature of any residential mini-split at -15°F. The XLTH (Extra Low Temperature Heating) models are engineered specifically for extreme cold. Slightly smaller dealer network than Mitsubishi, but excellent reliability and competitive pricing.
Strong Mid-Range
Daikin Aurora
Daikin is the world’s largest HVAC manufacturer. The Aurora line is their cold-climate product for North America, rated to -13°F. Solid reliability and competitive pricing. Good choice when Mitsubishi availability is limited or budget is a factor.
Value Option
LG Red
The LG Red series offers cold-climate performance at the lowest price point of the four. Rated to -13°F with solid efficiency numbers. Smaller cold-climate track record in New England compared to Mitsubishi and Fujitsu, but growing rapidly. Best for budget-conscious projects.
System Design for Old Homes
Designing a ductless system for a pre-1950 home requires more thought than a modern home. You cannot simply count rooms and add heads. Each zone decision must account for the room's heat loss, its relationship to adjacent spaces, the structural constraints of old construction, and the homeowner's comfort priorities. Here is how we approach it.
Zone Planning
The goal is to identify which rooms need independent climate control and which rooms can share a zone. In an old home, bedrooms almost always need their own heads because of dramatic temperature differences between floors and between rooms facing different directions. Open-plan first floors (living room into dining room) can often share a single oversized head if the doorway between them is wide and always open.
Kitchens deserve careful attention. Old New England kitchens were often added as ells or extensions, poorly insulated and with lots of exterior wall area. They generate internal heat from cooking but lose heat rapidly through poorly insulated walls. A dedicated head for the kitchen is usually worthwhile in homes where the kitchen addition is thermally separated from the main structure.
Indoor Head Placement
In old homes with plaster walls, mounting a wall unit requires finding solid blocking behind the plaster. Wood lath behind plaster provides some support, but toggle bolts or backing plates are recommended for wall-mount units. Avoid mounting on interior plaster walls that separate from the studs — a common problem in 100-year-old homes where plaster keys have broken.
For rooms with high ceilings (10-12 feet, common in pre-1900 homes), mount the indoor head at standard height (7-8 feet) rather than at the ceiling. Mounting too high in a tall room directs heated air to the ceiling where it stratifies and wastes energy. Some installers default to ceiling height — insist on a lower mount in tall rooms.
Outdoor Unit Placement
Old homes often have limited side-yard space, and outdoor units need clearance from snow, ice, and dripping eaves. Place units on elevated platforms or wall brackets to keep them above snow accumulation. In New England, 18-24 inches of ground clearance is the minimum — 30 inches is better for heavy snow years. Avoid placing units under roof valleys or beneath areas where ice dams form. The dripping and refreezing cycle can encase the unit in ice, shutting it down.
Line Set Routing
Running refrigerant lines through old balloon-framed walls is challenging. The wall cavities are full of fire stops at random heights, old plumbing, and sometimes knob-and-tube wiring. Many installers route lines on the exterior using paintable line covers. For homes in historic districts, interior routing through closets, basements, and attic spaces is preferred to avoid visible exterior modifications.
The Air Sealing Question
The single most common question homeowners ask when converting an old home to heat pumps is: "Should I insulate and air seal first?" The answer is nuanced.
The Short Answer: Yes, But Don't Wait for Perfection
Address the biggest air leaks first: attic bypasses, basement rim joists, and gaps around plumbing and wiring penetrations. These represent 60-70% of a typical old home's air leakage and can be sealed for $1,500-$3,000. Then install the heat pump. You do not need to fully insulate every wall, replace every window, and achieve a perfect blower-door score before installing a heat pump. That "perfect first" approach costs $20,000-$40,000 and delays the project indefinitely.
The practical approach is to size the heat pump for the home as it is today (with its current leakage), seal the major air leaks, and install the system. As you improve the envelope over time (adding insulation, replacing windows), your heat pump will simply run less and cost less to operate. Modern inverter-driven heat pumps modulate their output continuously — they naturally adapt to a tighter envelope by running at lower speed and using less electricity.
Mass Save, Efficiency Maine, Energize CT, and other state programs offer free home energy assessments that identify the biggest air leakage points. Many programs also offer free or subsidized air sealing as part of the assessment. Always schedule the energy assessment before your heat pump installation so you can address major leaks first and get an accurate picture of your heating load.
Working with Historic Commissions
If your old home is in a locally designated historic district or is individually listed on the National Register of Historic Places, you may need approval from a historic commission before installing exterior-visible equipment. Here is how to navigate the process.
Use slim duct (concealed) indoor units
Slim duct units hide inside closets, soffits, or ceiling cavities. No visible wall-mounted heads on the interior. Commissions love invisible solutions.
Mount outdoor units on rear or side elevations
Place the outdoor condenser where it cannot be seen from the public right-of-way. Most commissions only regulate primary (street-facing) facades.
Paint line covers to match siding
Paintable plastic line covers can be color-matched to your clapboard or trim color. This dramatically reduces visual impact and satisfies most commissions.
Route lines through interior paths
Run refrigerant lines through the basement, up interior walls or closets, and into the attic. This avoids any exterior penetrations on the primary facade.
Use lattice or shrub screening
Screen outdoor units with lattice panels or shrub plantings. Maintain at least 12 inches of clearance on all sides for airflow.
File early and include photos
Submit your application early with photos showing proposed placement, sight-line analysis from the street, and product cut sheets. Thoroughness accelerates approval.
Cost Examples by Home Type
The following scenarios represent the three most common old home types we see in our New England service area. Prices include equipment, installation, permits, and standard electrical work. They do not include air sealing, insulation upgrades, or knob-and-tube rewiring, which are separate projects. All prices reflect 2026 pricing with no federal tax credit (25C is expired).
2-zone system
1,400 sqft Cape Cod
1 head in downstairs living area + 1 head in upstairs bedroom. Single outdoor unit.
4-zone system
2,200 sqft Colonial
2 heads on first floor (living + kitchen) + 2 heads on second floor (primary + secondary bedroom). One or two outdoor units.
5-zone system
3,000 sqft Victorian
2 heads on first floor + 2 heads on second floor + 1 head in third-floor attic bedroom. Two outdoor units (split capacity).
Get a Quote for Your Old Home
NuWatt specializes in retrofitting old New England homes. We handle the engineering, historic commission approvals, and all rebate paperwork.
State Rebates for Old Home Conversions
With the federal Section 25C tax credit expired, state rebates are the only significant financial incentive for residential heat pump installations. The good news: several New England states offer especially strong rebates, and some have enhanced incentives specifically for older homes or oil-to-heat-pump conversions. Federal HEAR rebates (up to $8,000 for income-qualified households) also remain available and stack with state programs.
Mass Save
Massachusetts
Up to $10,000
$10,000 for whole-home heat pump conversion. Income-qualified households may receive enhanced rebates up to $16,000. Includes free home energy assessment and air sealing.
Energize CT
Connecticut
Up to $2,250
$750 per indoor unit, max 3 units ($2,250). Additional incentives for income-qualified households. Free home energy audit included.
Clean Heat RI
Rhode Island
Up to $11,500
The most generous program in New England. Up to $11,500 for whole-home conversion from fossil fuels. Income-enhanced tiers available.
NHSaves
New Hampshire
$250/ton (up to $1,250)
Standard rebate $250/ton for oil/gas/propane switch (5-ton cap = $1,250 max). Enhanced rebate $1,250/ton for electric resistance replacement (up to $6,250, pre-verification required). R-32/R-454B refrigerant required. Utilities: Eversource, Liberty, Unitil, NHEC. Install deadline Dec 30, 2026.
Efficiency Vermont
Vermont
Up to $5,000
Up to $5,000 for cold-climate heat pumps with ENERGY STAR certification. Enhanced rebates for income-qualified households.
Efficiency Maine
Maine
Up to $8,000
Up to $8,000 for income-eligible households. Standard rebates of $2,000-$4,000 for all homeowners. Strong focus on oil displacement.
Common Mistakes with Old Home Heat Pump Projects
Sizing for the house as if it were well-insulated
Old homes lose far more heat than modern homes. Using rule-of-thumb sizing (1 ton per 600 sqft) will leave you cold in January. Always insist on a Manual J calculation.
Not choosing cold-climate rated equipment
A standard mini-split loses 50-70% of capacity below 15°F. You need Hyper-Heat, XLTH, or equivalent cold-climate models rated to at least -13°F for New England.
Removing the existing boiler before the first winter
Keep your backup heating system for the first heating season. Verify the heat pump handles your coldest days before decommissioning oil or gas equipment.
Mounting outdoor units at grade level
New England gets 3-5 feet of snow. A ground-level outdoor unit will be buried, blocked, and damaged. Mount on wall brackets or elevated platforms at least 18-24 inches above max snow line.
Ignoring electrical panel capacity
Old homes often have 100-amp or even 60-amp electrical panels. A multi-zone heat pump system may require a panel upgrade ($2,000-$4,000). Check panel capacity before signing a contract.
Skipping the energy assessment
Every New England state offers free home energy assessments. The assessment identifies air leaks, insulation gaps, and electrical concerns — and often includes free air sealing worth $1,000-$2,000.
Old New England homes are some of the most rewarding heat pump projects we do at NuWatt. The energy savings are dramatic — many homeowners switching from oil heat save $2,000-$4,500 per year — and the comfort improvement is transformative. Rooms that were always too cold or too hot finally become comfortable year-round. The key is working with an installer who understands the unique challenges of old construction: proper sizing, cold-climate equipment, careful line routing, and phased envelope improvements.
With state rebates still strong across New England and HEAR rebates available for income-qualified households, the economics remain favorable even without the expired federal tax credit. A well-designed ductless system in an old home typically pays for itself in 4-7 years through fuel savings alone — and delivers both heating and air conditioning from day one.
Free Old Home Assessment
NuWatt specializes in pre-1950 homes across New England. We handle Manual J calculations, historic commission approvals, and all rebate paperwork. Get a free assessment today.
Frequently Asked Questions
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