Ducted heat pumps use existing ductwork and provide whole-home coverage from a single unit. Ductless mini-splits need no ducts and offer room-by-room control. The right choice depends on your home's existing infrastructure and layout.
Home Electrification Experts — Full-Service Design to Install, 9 States
Ducted Cost
$12,000–$18,000
whole-home
Ductless Cost
$10,000–$20,000
whole-home
Duct Losses
10–30%
energy waste
NuWatt Split
60% ductless
40% ducted
Ducted vs Ductless: Understanding Your Options
The decision between a ducted and ductless heat pump system is one of the most consequential choices you will make during your heat pump installation. It affects your upfront cost, your long-term efficiency, your comfort level, the appearance of your home, and even the value of your property. There is no universally correct answer — the right choice depends on your home's existing infrastructure, your comfort priorities, and your budget.
In the NuWatt service area (MA, CT, RI, NH, VT, ME, NJ, PA, NY, TX), we install roughly 60% ductless and 40% ducted systems. The split reflects the housing stock: much of New England was built before forced-air heating was standard, so many homes simply do not have ductwork. In the mid-Atlantic and Texas, homes are more likely to have existing ducts from a central air conditioning system, making ducted heat pumps a natural fit. But the choice is rarely that simple — let us break it down.
Quick Comparison Table
The table below provides a side-by-side comparison of the key differences between ducted and ductless systems. We will explore each of these factors in detail in the sections that follow.
| Feature | Ducted | Ductless |
|---|---|---|
| Upfront Cost (whole-home) | $12,000–$18,000 | $10,000–$20,000 |
| Efficiency (HSPF2) | 8.5–10.5 | 10.0–13.0 |
| Duct Losses | 10–30% | 0% |
| Room-by-Room Control | Limited | Full zoning |
| Visual Impact | Hidden in ducts | Wall units visible |
| Best For | Homes with existing ducts | No ducts / additions |
| Indoor Noise | 30–40 dB | 19–28 dB |
| Installation Time | 2–4 days | 1–2 days |
| Maintenance Complexity | Duct cleaning + filters | Filter cleaning only |
| Lifespan | 15–20 years | 15–20 years |
When to Choose Ducted
A ducted heat pump system uses an indoor air handler connected to a network of supply and return ducts that distribute heated or cooled air throughout your home. The indoor equipment is hidden — typically in a basement, attic, or utility closet — and the only visible elements are standard air vents in each room. For homeowners who value a clean, invisible HVAC system, ducted is hard to beat aesthetically.
Invisible System
Ducted Heat Pump
Hidden air handler in basement/attic. Only visible elements are air vents in each room. Works with existing ductwork.
Maximum Efficiency
Ductless Mini-Split
Individual wall-mounted or ceiling-mounted units in each room. No ducts — eliminates all duct losses. True room-by-room control.
A ducted system is the right choice in these situations:
Your home has existing ductwork in good condition — ducts well-sealed (<15% leakage), properly sized, insulated where they run through unconditioned spaces
You are replacing furnace and want drop-in replacement — new air handler mounts in same location, connects to same ducts, delivers heated air through same vents
You want invisible, whole-home heating without wall units — particularly important in recently renovated homes or homes being prepared for resale
Your home has central air handler location — basement, mechanical room, or attic. If duct runs are short (<25 feet), duct losses are minimized
Ducted System Cost Example
2,200-sqft Colonial in Connecticut with existing ductwork. Homeowner replaces aging gas furnace with Carrier Greenspeed ducted heat pump. Total installed cost: $15,200. With Energize CT optimization-tier rebate ($750/ton × 3 tons = $2,250), net cost is $12,950. Duct system had 12% leakage, which NuWatt sealed to 6% as part of installation — improving effective system efficiency by approximately 7%.
When to Choose Ductless
A ductless mini-split system uses individual indoor wall-mounted or ceiling-mounted units (called "heads") in each room or zone, connected by refrigerant lines to one or more outdoor compressor units. There are no ducts — each head delivers heating and cooling directly to its room. This eliminates duct losses entirely and provides true room-by-room temperature control.
A ductless system is the right choice in these situations:
No existing ductwork — homes built before 1950 typically have hydronic heating with no duct system. Installing new ductwork is expensive ($3,000-$8,000), invasive, often impractical
Rooms that are always too hot or too cold — each head has own thermostat and operates independently, so you can set bedroom to 68°F while keeping living room at 72°F
Home additions, finished basements, bonus rooms — extending existing ductwork to new addition often impractical. Single ductless head for 400-sqft addition costs $3,500-$5,500 installed
You want maximum efficiency — ductless systems are 10-30% more efficient than ducted in real-world operation because they eliminate duct losses entirely
Duct leakage above 20% and repair not practical — if existing ductwork is severely deteriorated, cost to repair may exceed cost of installing ductless system
Ductless System Cost Example
1,600-sqft Cape in Rhode Island with no existing ductwork. Homeowner replaces oil baseboard heat with 3-head Mitsubishi Hyper-Heat ductless system (one outdoor unit, heads in living room, master bedroom, upstairs bedroom). Total installed cost: $14,200. With Clean Heat RI rebate (60% of cost, capped at $11,500), net cost is $2,700. Annual heating savings versus oil: $2,150. Payback period: 15 months.
Efficiency: Why Ductless Systems Win on Paper (and in Practice)
The efficiency gap between ducted and ductless systems comes down to one factor: duct losses. Even a well-sealed duct system loses 10-15% of its heated air before it reaches the living space. Ducts running through unconditioned attics, crawlspaces, or garages lose even more — 20-30% is common in older homes.
Efficiency Math
Ducted with 20% Losses
HSPF2 10.0 → 8.0
Nameplate HSPF2 of 10.0, but 20% duct losses = effective HSPF2 of 8.0 at point of use. Annual cost: $1,200.
Ductless with 0% Losses
HSPF2 12.0 → 12.0
Nameplate HSPF2 of 12.0, 0% duct losses = effective HSPF2 of 12.0 at point of use. Annual cost: $800. $400/yr savings.
Over 15-20 year equipment life, $400 annual savings = $6,000-$8,000 lifetime electricity savings. Often offsets slightly higher installation cost of multi-zone ductless system.
Aesthetics and Noise: The Ductless Trade-Off
The primary objection homeowners raise to ductless systems is aesthetics. Wall-mounted indoor heads are visible — they are white rectangles (approximately 32 inches wide, 12 inches tall, and 8 inches deep) mounted high on the wall near the ceiling. Some homeowners find them unobtrusive; others consider them an eyesore, particularly in formal living rooms or bedrooms with carefully designed interiors.
There are ways to mitigate the visual impact. Ceiling cassette units mount flush with the ceiling and are far less visible than wall units. Floor-mounted units sit near the baseboard and resemble a large radiator cover. Slim duct units can be concealed in a closet or soffit and distribute air through short duct runs, providing the invisibility of a ducted system with most of the efficiency benefits of ductless. These options cost 10-30% more than standard wall-mounted heads but may be worth it for aesthetics-sensitive homeowners.
On the noise front, ductless systems are dramatically quieter than ducted systems. A wall-mounted ductless head operates at 19-28 dB — comparable to a whisper or a quiet library. A ducted system produces 30-40 dB at the register, roughly equivalent to a quiet conversation. The difference is noticeable, especially in bedrooms. If noise sensitivity is a priority, ductless is the clear winner.
The Hybrid Approach: Best of Both Worlds
Many homes benefit from a hybrid approach that combines ducted and ductless equipment. This is particularly common in older New England homes that have partial ductwork — for example, a 1950s ranch that was retrofitted with central air on the first floor but has baseboard heat in the finished basement and second-floor bedrooms.
Ducted first floor + ductless second floor
Many colonials and capes have ductwork on first floor (from previous central air) but no ducts upstairs. Ducted air handler serves first floor while ductless heads handle bedrooms above.
Ducted main house + ductless in-law suite
If your home has attached apartment, finished above-garage space, or separate wing, ductless head in that space is far more practical than extending main duct system.
Ducted for whole-home base load + ductless for problem rooms
Some homes have one or two rooms chronically uncomfortable. Ductless head in those rooms provides targeted supplemental conditioning while ducted system handles rest of house.
Ducted for new construction + ductless for existing section
If you are building addition on home without ductwork, addition gets new ducts while original house uses ductless heads. Avoids cost and disruption of retrofitting ducts into existing structure.
Hybrid System Cost Example
2,400-sqft Colonial in New Hampshire with ductwork on first floor but not second. NuWatt installs ducted Daikin FIT for first floor (connected to existing ducts) and two Mitsubishi Hyper-Heat wall cassettes for upstairs bedrooms. Total installed cost: $16,800. With NHSaves standard rebate ($250/ton × 5 tons = $1,250), net cost is $15,550. Homeowner previously spent $3,000/year on oil heat; hybrid heat pump system costs $850/year in electricity, saving $2,150 annually. Payback period: 7.2 years.
Decision Framework: Which System Is Right for You?
Use this framework to determine the best system type for your home. Answer each question honestly and see where the balance tips:
Choose Ducted If...
- You have existing ductwork in good condition (<15% leakage)
- Aesthetics is top priority (invisible system)
- You want drop-in replacement for furnace
- Your home has central air handler location
Choose Ductless If...
- You have no existing ductwork
- You want room-by-room temperature control
- Maximum efficiency is primary goal
- You have rooms ducts cannot easily reach
If you are still unsure, NuWatt can evaluate your home and recommend the best approach during your free consultation. We install ducted, ductless, and hybrid systems every week, and we will recommend whatever best fits your home — not whatever is easiest for us to install.
Get a Free System Design Consultation
NuWatt evaluates your home and recommends the right system — ducted, ductless, or hybrid.
Common Mistakes When Choosing Between Ducted and Ductless
In our years of installing heat pumps across New England and beyond, we see the same mistakes repeatedly. Avoid these pitfalls:
Choosing ducted solely because you have ducts — if ducts are leaking 25-30%, running through unconditioned attic, or severely undersized, duct system is undermining heat pump performance
Refusing ductless because of aesthetics alone — ceiling cassettes and slim duct concealed units exist specifically for aesthetics-sensitive installations
Installing too few ductless heads — trying to save money by installing one or two heads and "letting heat migrate" does not work well in most homes
Ignoring duct condition — connecting new $15,000 heat pump to duct system with 25% leakage is like buying new car and putting bald tires on it
Not considering hybrid approach — many homeowners think they must choose one or the other. Hybrid configurations are often best solution for homes with partial ductwork
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Frequently Asked Questions
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Continue Reading
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Room-by-Room Comfort: Multi-Zone Ductless Design Mistakes to Avoid
The #1 multi-zone mistake is connecting too few indoor heads to an oversized outdoor unit. This causes short-cycling, poor humidity control, and energy waste. Each indoor head should be matched to the room's actual heating load.